The ITV

If you own a car that is registered in Spain, it needs to be checked for roadworthiness and safety by the Spanish authorities on a regular basis. New cars are exempt for the first few years. But after that, they are expected to be checked either annually or every other year. This system, and the checks performed, are quite similar in most (all?) European countries such as the MOT (UK), APK II (NL), and Kontrollbesiktning (SE).

In Spain, this check is better known as the ITV, the Inspección Técnica de Vehículos. 

In this post, we’ll have a look at what will be checked at the ITV and what you can do yourself to prepare your car for the ITV.

While it’s not the end of the world to be disqualified at the ITV, many simple things can easily be avoided, and some things you can check and fix yourself before going to the ITV.

The inspection:

The checks done by the inspector during the ITV can be split up into the following groups:

  • Lighting
  • Outside of the car
  • Inside the car
  • Engine compartment
  • Wheels and brakes
  • Undercarriage
  • Environment

For each of the groups, there’s a checklist for the inspector to follow. What needs to be there, how it is supposed to work, and under what conditions it can no longer be approved are strictly described in the instructions the inspector follows.

Now we’ll go over each point to see what is expected.

Lighting:

Almost all lights on your car should work, and the glass should be in good condition, well adjusted,  and not be damaged.

What you can do:

Test each of these items:

  • Switch on each light and check that it works. This includes:
    • Indicators, including the small ones on the side of your car or in the mirror
    • Parking lights (the small lights in the front that you never use)
    • Front:
      • Low-beam lights
      • High-beam lights
      • Fog lights (these are not required for all cars, but if you have them, both must work)
      • Height adjustment of the front light units
      • Front lights are properly adjusted in height
    • Rear:
      • Rear lights
      • Registration plate lighting
      • Brake lights (three if you have three, otherwise two)
      • Reverse lights
      • Fog light (if you have one)
    • Dashboard:
      • Lighting for the speedometer
      • Rear fog light warning light in the instrument cluster
    • Horn
    • Window wipers and washer front and rear (fill the reservoirs)
    • In general:
      • Glasses should not be cracked, discolored, or matted* due to sunlight
      • The lights should be quite similar in color and intensity

*Matted front lights due to UV light do not always have to be replaced, but can often be polished.

Outside the car:

The VIN:
The VIN is the unique identification of your car. On older cars, most often it has been stamped in on a solid piece of the bodywork under the hood. Newer cars usually also have a small plate visible on the dashboard through the windshield that shows the VIN. Checking the VIN on your car should be the first thing the ITV inspector does.

Windshield:
The windshield of your car should not have cracks that are in the direct view of the driver. Mostly, the window on the driver side is inspected, but if there’s a lot of damage on the passenger side, the windshield may be deemed unsafe. The wiper blades should be in good condition. Dried out rubber will not be approved.

Mirrors:
Modern cars have mirrors on both sides of the car. Both should be there and the mirror glass cannot have cracks. Notably, the mirrors must be of glass, plastic replacements are not allowed.

Sharp parts:
There should be no damage to the outside of the car that is perceived as sharp, as these can hurt pedestrians and cyclists. This goes for collision damage as well as rust damage. But also for car parts that are not installed properly on your car. Sharp parts can also be chrome trim that is not attached properly.

Number plates:
Obviously, your car should have numberplates front and rear. They must be properly attached to your car and readable. If they are dented or slightly damaged, the inspector may make a note this or frankly not approve the car.

The doors:
All doors must open and close. Locking is not a requirement, nor is central locking or remote locking. The door hinges must not sag too much to make opening or closing the door hard. The doors must open and close using the handles on the inside and outside.

What you can do:

  • Walk around the car and look for parts that might be sharp
  • Check that both mirrors are in good order
  • Have a look at your windscreen to see if there’s a crack that could be a problem
  • Check your wiper blades and washer. If the rubber is loose or saggy, replace both. As said before, top up the washer reservoirs (there may be two)
  • Lightly pull your number plates. If they are loose, fix that

Inside of the car:

Points of attention:

  • The rearview mirror
  • The seats should be properly attached to the car
  • The seatbelts (front and rear) should be in good order and work properly
  • The brake and clutch pedals should have rubber padding
  • You should have two warning triangles in your car!*
  • The brake pedal should be firm and not sink to the bottom when pressed

*This will change in January 2026, when you’ll need to have the new warning flasher in you car.

What you can do:

  • Sit in each seat and apply the seatbelt. It should lock in place and unlock with the button. If you give it a sharp jank, it should block
  • Pull and push each seat to see if it is coming loose
  • Check the pedals for the rubber covers
  • Take out the triangles and put them in the passenger seat so you don’t have to look for it at the ITV
  • Press the brake pedal a few times, then press and hold – it should be firm and not sink to the bottom

The engine compartment:

Points of attention:

  • There should be no fuel leaks!
  • There should be no excessive oil leaks
  • The level of the brake fluid reservoir should not be too low
  • The battery must be firmly attached to the car
  • The motor mounts should not be worn out
  • The suspension turrets should not be excessively rusty

What you can do:

Open the hood:

  • See if anything looks oily
  • Pull lightly on the battery to make sure it is properly attached
  • Check the level of your braking fluid. If the level is medium to low: go see a workshop!

Wheels and brakes:

Points of attention:

  • The wheel rims must not be damaged. This means no buckles or cracks can be visible. If you once hit the curb and damaged the paintwork but not the rim, that should be no problem.
  • The tyres should:
    • Have a sufficient profile
    • Not be damaged on the sidewall or the profile
    • Should be the same make, model, and dimension on each axle
    • Should be inflated properly
  • The brakes will be tested on a braking test apparatus. This checks:
    • Sufficient brake function for your car*
    • Even brake function for both wheels on an axle (front and rear)
    • Your parking brake

*The amount of braking power depends on the weight of your car.

What you can do:

  • Inspect your tyres for wear and profile, and visit a tire specialist when in doubt
  • Adjust the tire pressure before visiting the ITV
  • Check your spare (if you have one) and make sure it is pressurized

Undercarriage:

The inspector will enter a pit under that car to inspect:

  • Exhaust leaks
  • Condition of the:
    • Brake lines
    • Brake hoses
    • Brake pads and disks
  • Condition of the:
    • Springs
    • Suspension
    • Floor
    • Bottom of the car
  • Engins oild leaks
  • Transmission oil leaks
  • Towbar (if you have one)

What you can do:

This is not an easy thing to check yourself. You can wiggle the steering wheel while the car is parked and listen for ‘funny’ noises. If you think you hear abnormal noises or sounds during braking, accelerating, cornering, or taking bumps in the road, then perhaps you should check this with a workshop. A leaking exhaust usually lets you know…

For oil leaks from the engine or transmission, just check your parking place as it will tell you. When in doubt, put a large piece of cardboard under the car and check it for oil drops a day later.

Environment:

The inspector will hang a thin metal pipe in the end of the exhaust of your car. That pipe takes in some of the exhaust gases and measures their content. The purpose is a basic functionality check of the environmental systems in your car.

The gases measured are

  • CO2 (%): should be zero for a car with a catalyzer. A high value implies the catalyzer, sensors, or electronics are not working as they should
  • HC (ppm): should be low for a not-too-worn engine. A high value discloses a worn or badly working engine

What you can do:

Not too much I’m afraid. If you have excessive high fuel or oil consumption, you can either see it it passes the ITV or visit a workshop prior to going to the ITV.

With excessive fuel consumption, first check for leaks by inspecting if fuel is dripping under your car. The smell of fuel is also a strong indicator of a fuel leak. In case of a fuel leak, do not drive your car but have it towed to a workshop.

Before the ITV:

The list above should give you an idea on what will be checked at the ITV and also provide you with things you can check yourself. Do not start haphazardly replacing lamp bulbs that work, perfectly good wiper blades, or tyres that may be good enough.

When in doubt, visit a workshop or tire specialist and have them check if the item is bad and should be replaced. If you don’t have a workshop, you can always visit the ITV, do the check, and simply repair whatever may fail.

After the ITV:

If no problems were found, you’ll get a paper and a sticker – congrats! You have to put the sticker on the inside of your windscreen. The paper has to be with the car, so the glove compartment should be a good place for it. Both the sticker and the paper will clearly show when your car is expected again for the next ITV check.

If you were less lucky and did not get approved, it is important to check what points of attention were noted by the inspector. Usually, they’ll go over the list with you, but if your Spanish is as good as mine, you’ll have to find our yourself. Using the Google Translate camera will help you understand what is wrong. If you’re handy, perhaps you can fix it yourself; otherwise, visit your local workshop.

Notes:

  • Words as excessively and properly are used to describe the condition or function of certain car parts. These are obviously not exact definitions, but may vary from car to car, and may be interpreted differently from one inspector to the other.
  • Disclaimer: This post provides you with the most important things checked at the ITV. It does not claim to be complete. I used to be a qualified APK II inspector in Holland, and have been maintaining and fixing cars of various brands and models for 45 years.
  • If you have an electric car, some of the checks above do not apply to it.
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