Exploring Los Alcázares: The El Habenero Tren Turistico Urban Art Tour Experience

Exploring Los Alcázares: The El Habenero Tren Turistico Urban Art Tour Experience

After years of meaning to join, I finally booked myself and my husband on the El Habenero Tren Turistico’s English Language Urban Art Tour in Los Alcázares. This little tourist train offers an immersive journey through the town’s unique art scene—a scene that transforms ordinary streets into a vibrant outdoor gallery of over 140 murals and art installations, each piece packed with its own story and symbolism.

A Brief History: From “Painted Village” to Open-Air Museum

Los Alcázares’ street art journey began in 2014 when local artists from La Compañía De Mario, a community of contemporary and alternative artists, took to the streets. They transformed concrete walls and overlooked corners with colourful, thought-provoking murals. The council quickly recognised the potential of these pieces, envisioning Los Alcázares as Spain’s largest open-air street art museum. By 2016, this vision blossomed into a three-day annual festival, drawing international artists from across Europe, America, and Africa, who collectively created 44 stunning works. Since then, the festival has expanded with subsequent editions in 2022 and 2024, contributing to a collection that has grown so extensive it’s now almost impossible to see everything in one day.

Setting Off on the Tour

Our tour set off at 3 pm from outside the town hall, with local artist and guide, Jesús Gracia Albaladejo, at the helm. Jesús, an art therapist and member of La Compañía De Mario, is not only deeply knowledgeable about Los Alcázares’ murals but is also a creator of some of the art himself. He began by sharing insights into the “code of respect” observed among street artists—a fascinating system that discourages painting over others’ work without permission, while encouraging respectful collaborations to enhance existing art. His stories shed light on the artists’ unwritten rules, offering a peek into the complex ethics of urban art.

Discovering Hidden Gems and Stories Behind the Murals

The train took us through narrow streets and quiet corners where I found myself noticing murals I’d somehow overlooked for years. Our first stop was in the streets to the rear of the Correos building, where Jesús pointed out some fantastic pieces and shared backstories, ranging from whimsical to deeply meaningful.

Some of the artists’ works, like those by Spanish street artist Hamgeo, are globally recognized, and Jesús showed us “Reflecting on Turing’s Dream,”  a collaborative piece honouring Alan Turing’s legacy.

Reflecting on Turing’s Dream a Hamgeo collaboration

 

We also encountered works by Angel Toren, who often features circles and steps in his designs, as well as Paula Tovar’s striking “Screaming Woman,” which she painted at only 15 years old on the walls of the local sports centre.

Paula Tovar’s “Screaming Woman”

 

Each mural had a story, and Jesús’ insights revealed hidden messages. Some pieces were social or political, while others focused on environmental themes, like the mural of the sombre seahorse that reflects the degradation of the Mar Menor lagoon. These stories brought a deeper layer of appreciation, as I realised how much art and meaning could be found in these pieces when viewed through the eyes of their creators.

The sombre sea horse (Hippocampus)

 

A Closer Look at Iconic Pieces

The train journey led us to more striking pieces, like Sfhir’s mesmerizing mural on the Cultural Centre, which depicts a woman who seems to be swimming underwater. This piece, by an artist considered one of the world’s best street artists, was awe-inspiring and complex. As we rode on, we saw the famous “Humpty Dumpty,” featuring the face of artist Dan Ferrer himself, as well as the touching portrait of Ferrer’s daughter in “The Little Girl with Flowers,” painted during the 2016 festival.

Works by Dan Ferrer featuring his own face and that of his daughter

 

One of my personal favourites was “City Lights” by British artist DANK (Dan Kitchner), a neon-lit homage to Japanese culture that illuminates the streets with its vibrant colours and intricate details. The tour frequently paused for photo opportunities, and at each stop, Jesús invited us to observe aspects of the artwork carefully, even noting where vents and windows had been cleverly incorporated into the murals, a testament to the artists’ ingenuity.

One of my personal favourites “City Lights” by DANK

A Break to Reflect

Halfway through, we took a quick break at a local bar, a chance to relax and digest the impressive array of art we’d already seen. It was remarkable to hear about how some of these pieces had changed over time—like a red jellyfish mural that had faded to blue-grey under the sun’s harsh rays. The stories gave the artworks an organic, almost living quality, reflecting the passage of time.

The Final Stretch and Parting Thoughts

As the tour neared its end, we crossed over to the back streets, encountering more murals before heading back to our starting point. Along Avenida de Libertad, we saw even more creations, including an open gallery where a mural of a boy hanging from a washing line, though now tagged, remains a favourite. Despite the wear and tear, these murals remain iconic, some even more appreciated for their weathered look. Two and a half hours had passed in what felt like no time, filled with history, culture, and beauty we might have never truly seen otherwise.

Why You Shouldn’t Wait

If you’re in Los Alcázares or planning a visit, this tour is not to be missed. For just €10, it’s an exceptional opportunity to experience art up close, learn about the artists and their inspirations, and see the town from a fresh perspective. I only regret that we didn’t do it sooner.

 

Helen
November 2024

Editor’s comment:

Helen’s article above sure motivates me to take the tour next time we’re out. It also seamlessly connects to a series of articles published in this year’s three-day annual festival held in june 2024:

Following the links in the list, you can see the progress made as the mural art is created.

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